The Ilala Ferry of Lake Malawi

There’s something romantic about the idea taking a ship across a huge lake in Africa, and the Ilala ferry gives you just that opportunity. The Ilala has been traversing Lake Malawi for around 55+ years, traveling the 365-mile length of the lake from north to south and back once a week. Yes, it takes a full week-something that sets the pace of life for any passenger on board.

Our Journey on The Ilala Begins

I boarded the Ilala at Senga Bay, with plans to arrive at Likoma Island 24 hours later. However, many of the docks for the boat are out of action, so loading and unloading is done by hand onto large rowing boats. This includes people, animals, building materials, and food. This method ensures that the boat is always behind schedule and running late, but for me, that’s part of the charm of such a trip. i mean whats a few extra hours when you. Travelling from Cape Town to Cairo

There are three classes of service available on the Ilala. There’s a very cramped 3rd class below deck, which is truly packed, an equally crowded 2nd class, and a 1st class on the top deck. Normally, I don’t opt for 1st class, but the chance to sleep under the stars made it worth it. I planned to camp out in my sleeping bag and watch the Milky Way. Cabins are available, but for me, this was an unnecessary luxury, especially when the chance to see shooting stars was on offer. The top deck also had a 1st class bar-not exactly the Titanic, but the cold beers and light snacks were a welcome treat while I read my book under the midday African sun.
The top deck was mainly occupied by backpackers and local Malawian men wearing expensive looking trainers. every one was friendly and i think i spoketo everyone on desk. The feelings among the passengers were mixed. I utterly loved the slow pace and the lengthy docking stops, but for others, the journey felt painfully long. given i was here forthe jouney and not the destination i really did have all the time in the world.

The Ilala’s role isn’t just to offer a scenic trip for. backpackers and footlocker employees -it’s a vital service, connecting towns that can otherwise be difficult to reach. The ferry was packed in 2nd class, with both passengers and cargo. Tons of food (including some of the largest sacks of (what i think were) potatoes I’ve ever seen), building materials, and all sorts of household goods and clothing filled the ship.

As night fell, the flashy guys disappeared or maybe they disembarked at a stop, and the other travellers headed to their bunks. I seized the opportunity to grab a last beer, lay on my back, and enjoy the hum of the engines as the Milky Way slowly spun overhead. I utterly loved it. As I nodded off I remember thinking that its a shame that I’m only here for one night. -I’ll be back!!!!