A Serendipitous Visit to Mekele’s Monument: Uncovering Ethiopia’s Hidden Histories

I hadn’t initially planned to visit the monument in Mekele. It wasn’t even on my radar, let alone on my agenda. I therefore didn’t know much about it before arriving in the city. However, as is often the case when traveling, my plans had come together more seamlessly than expected over the past few weeks, leaving me with some extra time.
-By moving too quickly I hadn’t met anyone heading in the same direction and so, I didn’t make any friends on the road here. I had however caught new flow and lease of life and this feeling was driving my speed. Excited for my plans for the next few days I was again hungry for the adventure. But first, I had to get there. Today however i was Mekele.

Mekele itself seemed quiet, a city going about its business, despite the reports of unrest that have been circulating for the past decade. I was prepared to sense some tension in the air, and as I passed through various armed checkpoints on the roads into town, I wasn’t fazed. I expected these signs of unease, but they didn’t concern me much. Instead, they seemed to free me to explore the city sensibly and with an open mind. – I felt very safe not liberated as i felt watched, but absolutely safe.

Decision to Visit the Monument

With some free time on my hands, a local guide casually mentioned a monument that he thought was worth visiting. Intrigued by the suggestion and having nothing particular planned, I decided to take a walk and see what it was all about. The visit to the monument is well worth the effort, even if only for the panoramic view. (side note: If in doubt for what to do when stuck somewhere in the world, my advice is to simply simply head to the highest point on your horizon – this works in every location on the planet – trust me)
Perched high on a hill overlooking the city, the monument offers a stunning vista of Mekele and the surrounding landscapes. But it wasn’t just the view that captivated me. The architecture and sculpture of the monument were surprisingly moving. the artwork really painted a vivid picture of what those resisting political tyranny had to endure. The pain of the past was more than evident here.

The monument is dedicated to those who fought for human rights back in 1967-a fact that only became clear to me after my visit. Standing there, amidst the powerful sculptures and stark architectural elements, I could feel the weight of history pressing down-a history marked by struggle, sacrifice, and an unwavering fight for justice.

Another side note: Life on the road is incredibly liberating; I am totally free to do as I please. Yet, this freedom is only possible because of the work, pain, and suffering of millions of others. No, they weren’t fighting for backpackers; they were fighting for a freer and fairer world where people would be treated equally, starting with their local families. That they extended to local communities and that then became the entire national community before including the international community, including backpackers. This applies to my home country and also the place which I am visiting. We wouldn’t have what we have today without the past and all the suffering. This is however not to suggest that suffering is warranted for the idea of a better tomorrow because we have no idea how how tomorrow will turn out.

The museum attached to the monument added another layer of understanding to the visit. I hadn’t expected much from it, but I ended up spending a good hour there, absorbing as much as I could. The exhibits were well-curated, offering a deep dive into the events of 1967 and the broader context of Ethiopia’s fight against political oppression. The museum is modest, yet rich in content, making it easy to lose track of time as you move from one display to the next. My advice? Make sure to eat beforehand; you might find yourself so engrossed in the history that you forget about everything else.