An Unplanned Adventure in Somaliland: From Desert Roads to Unforgettable Hospitality

After spending a few good days in the capital, Hargeisa, my friend dropped a surprise over breakfast one morning. “Pack your things for the afternoon,” he said casually. “We’re going on an adventure for a few days.” This wasn’t in the plan, and while I was curious, I was also a little concerned. He teased me, saying, “While you might look Somali, inside, you’re too British. Relax,” he added with a grin, “it will be fine.”

“Where are we going?” I asked, half-expecting a vague answer.

“To the beach,” he replied, then added with a mischievous smile, “to see some pirates.”

Pirates here aren’t exactly a joking matter. I laughed nervously, and he reassured me, “Brother, do you honestly think I’d put you in any danger? You are my guest.”

The Decision to Go on an Unplanned Adventure

For a seasoned traveler who is always in search of truly unusual experiences, Somaliland had somehow slipped under my radar. I knew of it, but never as a backpacker destination. Yet, here I was, exploring it with a local, backpacking my way through. The Republic of Somaliland declared its independence from Somalia in 1991, but its status as a sovereign nation remains unrecognised by the international community and the World Bank. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, Somaliland offers a wealth of unexpected and wonderful surprises for those willing to venture off the beaten path. And off the path we were going.

Later that afternoon, two large Toyota 4x4s pulled up, and we set off north. At first, we drove on broken roads, then on paths, and soon we were navigating the desert, following faint tracks in the sand.

The Journey North into the Desert

I wasn’t sure if we were making good time, but in the desert, time feels fluid. At night, the desert isn’t just vast-it’s gigantic, and with no phone service, I had no idea how far we had to go. Suddenly, in the middle of nowhere, we sheared two wheel nuts and had to make an emergency stop to replace the wheel. This isn’t the kind of place where you call AA. It was all hands on deck to dig out the sand and prop up the beast of a vehicle. My adrenaline was firing like never before. Everyone else seemed calm, but I was on edge, remembering the comments about pirates and the embassy warnings. I didn’t really believe it was a trap, but my subconscious couldn’t shake the idea. While digging, I kept one eye on the horizon, half-expecting a scene from “Mad Max.”. Maybe i am too British.

Of course, nothing happened. The guys were relaxed because things like this just happen, and they knew how to handle it. We changed the wheel and kept pushing north until a large house appeared on the horizon. “This is it,” the driver said. He explained that he owned the local camel herd here. And by “local,” he meant about four million camels and we’d bee non his land for the past hour or so. To put this in perspective, there are an estimated 14 million camels in the world, and Somalia, a country of around 10 million people, has more than seven million camels. This guy owned half of them.

Arrival at a Remote Outpost and Discovering the Camel Herd

The next morning, we woke up refreshed. A day at the beach in Somaliland isn’t exactly like Magaluf, but the beach has a way of bringing out the inner child in everyone. As we played beach games overlooking the Gulf of Aden, I completely forgot where I was; I could have been anywhere. That evening, surrounded by camels, they slaughtered a goat, and it was incredible-utterly delicious. We then sat by the fire enjoying tea and exchanging lessons from life.

What will stay with me most from this trip is how the Somali people made my visit to Somaliland so memorable. I knew they were known for their hospitality, but what I experienced was beyond any expectation. The warmth and openness of the locals is something I won’t soon forget. I was truly treated like a brother. We were constantly invited into homes for traditional meals, and if we were out in the market, tea was always offered by a shopkeeper. ive never had this before, not in this frequency. I always knew my friend was a good guy, but now I see that he comes from a culture that has a unique way of making you feel welcome and at ease. And at easy and welcomed did i feel.