An Unexpected Journey to Somaliland: Trust, Friendship, and Surprises in a Land of Rich Culture

I can’t fully explain how I ended up here, but looking back at my previous posts, I can see how everything now lined up. Somehow, I found myself in Somaliland. It all started with a former colleague-a Welsh guy of Somali background. He had moved to Somaliland and became my unexpected gateway to this fascinating place. “You must come and visit,” he told me. “You’ll fit right in, my brother. Come and see what it’s all about.” So, after some back and forth, I decided to take the plunge.

Concerns about unrest in northern Kenya and along the Ethiopian border had been weighing heavily on my mind, pushing me toward a decision. After meeting a great group of fellow backpackers at a lake in Uganda, I realised that I didn’t have the energy for a long overland journey solo. It was a decision I still stand by. What’s more, I didn’t want to spend weeks on buses retracing my steps, so I decided to fly instead. The overland adventure had now become somewhat of an “over land” adventure-small space, big difference.

Decision to Change Plans and Fly

Like many from the West, I essentially bought my way out of trouble, hopping back along the route I had painstakingly traveled over weeks. What had taken so long to traverse by land was covered in minutes by jet. Flying into Somaliland via Addis Ababa meant I could get a visa on arrival for Ethiopia on my return-a crucial time-saver. No need to return to Nairobi, Kampala, or any other capital city to obtain the right documents. It was a blessing in disguise, one that would later bear even more fruit.

Upon landing in Somaliland, the magic began. My friend, whom I had known since my university days, had meticulously arranged all my paperwork. He took care of everything for me, and I remain eternally grateful for his efforts. To be honest, I didn’t quite know who he really was back then. In my eyes, he was just another guy out of uni living in North London, but sometimes friends surprise you in ways that defy expectations.

At immigration, there were five queues. I chose the one that looked the most efficient. When I got to the front, the officer asked for my Letter of Invitation. “I don’t have one,” I replied. He looked at me, puzzled, and asked, “What are you doing here?” I explained that a friend had invited me. “Who’s your friend?” he asked. I gave him my friend’s name, and remarkably, the officer said his name with a smile and called him directly from his phone, with no input from me. My friend picked up, and moments later, he appeared. Just like that, the magic unfolded. – I couldn’t make this up if i tried.

Experiencing Somaliland’s Unique Culture

Somaliland is a poor place unlike any other-excluded from global markets and banking systems, yet rich in history and an overwhelming sense of trust. The local currency, heavily inflated or deflated (I’m still not sure which), was traded openly on the streets without armed guards or any signs of civil unrest. There was a pervasive sense of trust. The people believed in their system, and when the calls to prayer rang out, the whole city emptied as everyone went to pray. Everyone, that is, except me, sitting there with millions-perhaps even trillions-of the local currency stacked before me. I felt like the “Inside Man.”

I waited, marveling at the surreal nature of it all, in a place I never imagined visiting. The UN and British embassies, along with all European embassies, advise against travel here unless absolutely essential. This wasn’t essential, but I trusted my friend. He assured me, “You’ll be fine; you blend in, and it’s extremely safe. You will have no problems.” His words comforted me and allowed me to trust the process, something I’d done previously when I’d ignored similar warnings in Colombia and Pakistan.

As a non-native speaker, I can’t emphasise enough that this is a place where you need a local guide or fixer. Tourism does not exist here. For me, my friend was just that-arranging everything and showing me around with a warmth and hospitality that made me feel at home. I loved every moment and will forever be grateful for the experience and the food.

Conclusion and Reflections on the Journey
On the first night, in what felt like an embassy business hotel, I realised just how important local connections can be, especially in places that are so different from what you might call home. On paper, the journey here wasn’t planned. however looking back and seeing all the dots now align, I can help but think that I am exactly where I should be.
My friend was right, despite my heritage originating from the UK and Barbados, here in the Horn of Africa and everyone looked like me. i couldn’t believe it. Sometimes the most meaningful experiences come from the unplanned moments, the spontaneous decisions, and the kindness of friends. We’re all brothers from the same mother.